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The Mello Merch Glossary
Not sure what a puff print is? Confused by the difference between cut-and-sew and appliqué? Here’s everything you need to know about merch production, explained in simple terms.
Screen Printing Terms
- Plastisol Ink – The most common ink for screen printing, known for durability and vibrancy.
- Water-Based Ink – A softer, more breathable ink that soaks into the fabric rather than sitting on top.
- Discharge Printing – A process that removes dye from fabric, leaving a soft, vintage-like print.
- Puff Print – A specialty ink that expands when heated, creating a raised, 3D texture.
- Halftone Printing – A technique using tiny dots to create gradient effects in prints.
- Simulated Process Printing – A method used for complex, full-color prints that mimic photorealistic designs.
Embroidery & Appliqué Terms
- Satin Stitch – A smooth, shiny embroidery stitch used for lettering and logos.
- Twill Appliqué – A patch-like design stitched onto fabric, often used in sportswear.
- Chenille Embroidery – A raised, textured embroidery style often seen on varsity jackets.
- 3D Puff Embroidery – A technique that creates a bold, raised effect using foam under the stitching.
- Digitizing – The process of converting artwork into a stitch file for embroidery machines.
- Tackle Twill – A type of appliqué using layered twill fabric and stitching, common in sports jerseys.
Fabric & Blank Terms
- Combed Cotton – A smoother, softer cotton fabric made by removing impurities and short fibers.
- Ring-Spun Cotton – A high-quality cotton that feels softer and more durable than regular cotton.
- French Terry – A mid-weight knit fabric with soft loops on the inside, commonly used for hoodies.
- Heavyweight Cotton – A thick, durable fabric often used for premium T-shirts.
- Tri-Blend Fabric – A mix of cotton, polyester, and rayon for a soft, slightly vintage feel.
- GSM (Grams per Square Meter) – A measurement of fabric weight; higher GSM means thicker fabric.
- PFD/RFD (Prepared for Dyeing/Ready for Dyeing) – Blank garments that are untreated and ready for custom dyeing.
Cut & Sew Customization Terms
- Cut-and-Sew – A method where garments are fully custom-made, rather than printed on pre-made blanks.
- Paneling – A design technique where different fabric panels are sewn together for a unique look.
- Binding – A finishing method that reinforces seams with a separate fabric strip.
- Contrast Stitching – A decorative stitch in a different color than the fabric for added detail.
- Side Seams vs. Tubular Construction – Side-seamed garments have a more structured fit, while tubular ones are made from a single fabric roll without side stitching.
Specialty Decoration Techniques
- DTG (Direct-to-Garment Printing) – A digital printing method that works best for small-batch, full-color prints.
- Sublimation Printing – A process where ink turns into gas and bonds with polyester fabric, creating vibrant, all-over prints.
- Heat Transfer Vinyl (HTV) – A method where vinyl is cut and heat-pressed onto fabric.
- Crackle Print – A specialty ink that cracks over time for a vintage effect.
- Reflective Print – A technique that makes the design reflect light, often used in streetwear and safety wear.
- Flock Print – A velvety, suede-like texture applied through heat transfer.
